West to Bowra and back again
17.05.08 By 7.15 we were ready for more fuel, both for the Jeep and ourselves, in Dalby. Two hours into the drive and lots more to go. Our trip list had a number of common species on it, with only one surprise at this stage – BLACK KITE near the Gatton bypass, 5 of them circling the main road over a couple of kms, our first in SE Qld!
Coffee-ed and petrol-ed up ($1.39 a litre with 4 cent Woolworths discount) we headed on to our lunch destination, St George, another 290 odd kms further west. We were on a week’s western safari, heading for Cunamulla to start with - and hoping to go further. It had all been decided in the last couple of weeks – both Robert & I managing to get time off, plan and organise. Our primary destination – Bowra station, famous for an incredible selection of the rarer western species – or at least the harder to get ones.
As always we kept a road list, each species recorded as we saw it. R was keen to stop at a small National Park reserve in the middle of nowhere between Dalby and St George. He had stopped her before for a ‘water in, water out’ break before and wanted to take a walk to ease his muscles. We overshot but quickly turned and I drove down the track to the picnic ground a few hundred meters off the road. Parking we grabbed bins and cameras and headed off down an overgrown track looking for any activity. There wasn’t much, but we did find some WEEBILLS, YELLOW-FACED HONEYEATERS, a few GOLDEN WHISTLERS, an ORIOLE and a number of thornbills that evolved into INLAND and YELLOW after some investigation.
A half an hour and we decided to head back to the car - easier said than done when we couldn’t find the track and weren’t too sure of the way. We walked on in what we believed was the correct direction, relying on the sun, but nothing familiar turned up. Both of us silent, thinking the same thing – lost! We reassured each other that we would eventually find a road or the track, however in the silent, gloomy world under the dense trees this was getting harder to believe. Fifteen minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes and then we broke out suddenly onto the track we had driven in on – we had circled much further than we had thought and had a 200 meter walk back to the car – completely unexpected. Good start, we said, we haven’t even reached the hard stuff and we’re lost already! The GPS unit was still safe in the car, of course; it was to become a permanent fixture in future!
Back on the highway, cruise control safely locked in at 110 kms/hr, we barrelled on to St George. Arriving at lunch time we again filled up with petrol ($1.45 a litre, no discounts), bought some bakery food and coffee and headed to the river bank. Nothing exciting showed as we ate and we headed on out of town shortly afterwards. Crossing the bridge on the outskirts two birds flew across the windscreen and R suggested we stop to check them out as they had looked like Bourke’s Parrots. We turned off left at the end of the bridge and down a dusty track to stop on the river bank. The place was alive with birds and we excitedly identified my first lifer of the trip – CRIMSON CHAT! They were in significant numbers, as well as WHITE-PLUMED and SPINY-CHEEKED HONEYEATERS, ZEBRA and PLUM-HEADED FINCHES, DIAMOND DOVES, a WHITE-NECKED HERON, a WHISTLING KITE and a YELLOW-BILLED SPOONBILL. The Chats were not fully ‘coloured up’ – some showed flecks of red on chest and forehead, but the majority were plain, pale brown, rather pipit like, however, all had the bright crimson rump – very obvious when taking off or landing and quite stunning. Photos attempted and all birds noted we headed off on the third, and final, 300 km leg to Cunnamulla and Bowra station. Reaching Cunnumulla late afternoon, we topped up with fuel yet again - $1.51.9 a litre – in town and headed straight out to the station entrance. Reaching the beginning of the 2.5 km dirt road access we stopped at the gate to be greeted by our first Bowra bird – a female RED-CAPPED ROBIN.
As we drove in towards the homestead we met Julie, the owner, driving out! We chatted for a few moments car to car, checking bird possibilities and accommodation details, then on to the shearer’s quarters and unpacking the car. In the middle of transporting food, clothes and other sundries from car to room a cry went up as 4 MAJOR MITCHELL, or PINK, COCKATOOS flew off the trees beside the nearby pond – my second lifer! No time for bins, but the colourful birds were low overhead looking like they had been washed with something red and become stained.
The hour or so before nightfall allowed for quick birding around the immediate area – more RED-CAPPED ROBINS and CRIMSON CHATS, dozens of DIAMOND DOVES, 4 BLUEBONNETS and a BROWN FALCON were the significant finds among a selection of commoner species. We spent the evening swapping information and stories with other birders camping or sharing the rather basic shearer’s quarters. There was an electric blanket on my bed which I appreciated as the evening turned cool – it did make it a little harder to get up in the morning though!
18.05.08 Acting on some of the info garnered the previous night we set off for the Charleville road out of Cunnumulla for 8.00 the next morning. We birded a little before we left, but as daylight is not real in the west until about 7.00 we didn’t have a lot of time to look around and we wanted to be 30 kms north to catch the Bronzewing flocks we had been told about. Birding on the way – AUSTRALIAN BUSTARDS, BROWN FALCONS, various parrot species and a flock of EMUS delayed us but we got to the designated site at about 8.20. There had been ‘thousands’ of bronzewings flocking in the grasslands around the phone towers, these had reduced as the water supply dwindled and so we were keen to catch the remnant before they all dispersed back into the west. We were rewarded immediately with a flock of approx 150 FLOCK BRONZEWINGS circling the grasslands. Over the next hour and a half we saw several flocks of about the same number of birds although it was difficult to keep track so we believe the total number of individuals to be about 300. As we walked in the grasslands SPOTTED HARRIERS and BROWN FALCONS hunted the LITTLE BUTTON-QUAILS that rose from the grass.
We staked out a shallow water supply beside the road for a while but only ZEBRA FINCHES, DIAMOND DOVES and a couple of CRIMSON CHATS dropped in, nervously, for a drink. We weren’t surprised; the number of raptors in the general area was astounding. This was to continue all week with BLACK and WHISTLING KITES, NANKEEN KESTRELS, BROWN FALCONS of all phases and morphs and lesser numbers of HOBBYS and other species almost continually in sight all day. We didn’t actually see any Black Falcons although other birders reported them from several locations. (Late note – one falcon we did see at the Bronzewing location was probably Black. It was predating a Spotted Harrier for food and R got some shots that we believe establish it as a Black Falcon.)
Back at Bowra and the bird fest continued – I added CHESTNUT-CROWNED BABBLERS, SPOTTED BOWERBIRD, SOUTHERN WHITEFACE and BUDGERIGAR to my life list before lunch!
After a quick bite to eat we headed deeper into the station environs following R’s memory and the map supplied by Julie. Parking on a ridge we split up and moved through the thorny dry bush over the hard stony ground, searching the scrub and watching the ground ahead. We used walkie talkies to stay in touch, although only 70 – 100 meters apart, to avoid calling out. RED-CAPPED AND HOODED ROBINS, RUFOUS SONGLARKS, WILLIE WAGTAILS, BROWN TREECREEPERS and JACKY WINTERS, then a call from R on the walkie talkie and he had spotted our prey. I tried to locate the bird between us but could not find it skulking anywhere and felt cheated. We started another sweep and within a few minutes R again called in a bird, this time I did manage to see it – SPLENDID FAIRY-WREN, 3 or 4 females and a bright blue male – stunning!
We swept back up the slope towards the track and I identified a WHITE-BROWED TREECREEPER as it flew from tree to tree ahead of us. A strange three or four note call attracted our attention and a CRESTED BELLBIRD hopped into view! This was almost too good to be true!
We drove on, ending at the main waterhole where we found a couple of other visitors canoeing. We obtained very close views and photos of a PALLID CUCKOO and several water birds in that area. Late afternoon and we decided that a look for the reputed Grey Falcon would be worthwhile. Almost a mythical bird, it is arguably the rarest raptor in Australia, however a pair had bred successfully here this year and the resulting family of four were said to roost in a specific tree – so we headed there as the sun dropped lower.
We stood around watching everything that moved as the light slowly faded. I wandered off closer to the tree in case we had missed something, then a movement in the sky and it’s a raptor heading straight towards me. Wings close, a bullet dropping, wings open, a small controlled soar, wings closed again and it’s a head and shoulders view through the bins, wings open and an upglide to land in the tree in the fading sunlight. I called R urgently and ran to get the ‘scope from the car. We had 15 minutes of vision of this rare bird, bathed in warm sunlight, preening high in the old gum before the light final faded and we headed home for dinner. We never did see or positively identify any other GREY FALCONS or this one again, although I’m pretty sure we had two brief sightings in flight around the property in succeeding days.
Before we ate we headed down to a waterhole in search of Nightjars, owls or similar. Arriving at Sawpitt pond we sat and listened as dusk fell properly. A couple of micro bats flitted around and we heard two screams which suggested either gliders or an owl. No further identification was possible and we never got the chance to ask anyone if gliders did come this far west. We returned to our quarters after dark with plans to head out after dinner when it was fully dark, however, we agreed we had done enough for one day and settled for showers and bed after our chile and wine.
19.5.08 Up and out next morning we again headed off into the property – stopping at the ridge we again swept down 50 – 70 meters apart, walkie talkies poised. R called “Thornbills” and we moved together to systemically work through the features of a group of these tiny birds flitting in and out of waist high shrubs and confirmed our suspicions of yesterday – CHESTNUT-RUMPED THRONBILLS – first new bird of the day for me!
Again a sweep across the bottom of the slope and a return sweep into relatively ‘new’ territory back up the side of the slope. Climb over dead trees, little more than brush really, round thick resistant bushes, feet scrabbling at times on the loose stones covering the exposed earth. Looking always ahead about 50 meters watching for movement and there, was that something? “R, I think I’ve got something up ahead, yes, two, no three birds, running” It was the CHESTNUT-BREASTED QUAIL-THRUSH we had been seeking. These birds don’t fly easily but can they run? Jeeez, can they ever! Stopping to blend into the red, grey and black background their plumage matching their surrounds, then on, running around bushes, over and under the broken wood, splitting up then coming together again, it was difficult to keep them in sight and still remain as quiet as possible – chase them and be noisy or move quietly and lose them… difficult to find a happy medium. We split up and I stalked my ‘own’ 2 or 3 birds trying for some sort of photo. Thirty minutes and I had seen fleeting glimpses, a couple of good views in the bins, but no photos I would show anyone else… R called me up and we started to move towards each other when he pointed out an ‘eagle’ in the sky, calling a wedgie – I glanced up, still focused on the quail-thrush in the vicinity, and thought “nah, that’s not a wedgie’ – we quickly agreed it was a BLACK-BREASTED BUZZARD, a juvenile, a new bird for me, but quickly soaring out of reasonable range, we re-focused our attention on the quail-thrush…but they had used the distraction to fade further from view.
We walked on up the slope; still hoping for more, when a 4 note called came to our attention. Isolating the musician in a lone gum tree we had reasonable views of a pardalote. The call was not recognisable – to R anyway - however, our views produced a red eyebrow and unspotted back – RED-BROWED PARDALOTE – my 4th new bird of the day and it’s not even 9.00!
We drove on stopping at random intervals for raptors perched in trees – mainly Brown Falcons and, at one point, a COLLARED SPARROWHAWK. We walked for a while near a dam across what was gibber plain, looking specifically for Orange Chat, not finding any, we went on. At one point a small pool of water right beside the track afforded close views of Zebra Finches and Diamond Doves flocking to drink. We stopped for a few minutes and the birds continued to drink undisturbed so we could get some good photos from the car. Finally coming to what appeared to be the end of the track a HOBBY flew from a nearby tree and appeared to attack the car! A few times it flew close to us and the Jeep, not close enough to be a danger, but either very interested or not happy with our presence.
We turned and headed back – time to spend some effort to find the last local ‘rarity’ – Hall’s Babbler. We swept through the area famous for their presence, but to no avail. As we emerged into a more open area R called a honeyeater in a tree overhead and we had very brief view of a PIED HONEYEATER. Following up on this as it flew quite a distance – typically of the species – three small greyish parrots flew from tree to tree ahead of us – BOURKE’S PARROT! We never did see the Honeyeater again but did get great views of this quiet unobtrusive large budgie-like parrot!
We returned to the shearer’s quarters for lunch and to meet some new arrivals to the property. As we brought them up to date on the latest local bird news R spotted an ECHNIDA walking up the track from the homestead! It stopped at the base of a tree outside and snuffled around for a while looking, we assumed, for termites. When we had finished taking photos it walked off again and disappeared into the long grass.
Out again after lunch for another look for Hall’s Babbler – again with no luck but plenty of other birds to distract and interest us, including a large number of Little Buttonquails and other possible species flushed from the dry river bed behind the Hall’s Babbler site. We suspected Stubble and Red-chested button Quail but saw only 1 or 2 of these possibilities among 20 or 30 Little B-quails and the views were too brief to be substantial.
As we returned to the shearer’s quarters R noticed a flock of birds spiralling and circling above the track – we stopped and listened and looked and identified them as LITTLE CROWS – yet another new bird for me and in a flock of about 100 individuals!
We let the sunset pass with a drink beside the pond, and after R cooked a lamb stew for dinner we headed out for some night bird hunting. We tried for Barn, Masked and Barking Owls and even Tawny Frogmouths but were only successful in OWLET NIGHTJARS. We drove right out past the Quail-thrush ridge thinking of Plains Wanderers etc in the grasslands beyond – with no luck. Returning on the track however, R gripped my arm and called “Stop, Stop, Stop.” – which I was already doing because a SPOTTED NIGHTJAR sat on the track a few meters in front of the car lit by the headlights! We both approached to the front of the car and took multiple photos before it winged off into the dark. This was a new bird for both of us and the viewing was very satisfactory – crippling in fact!
20.5.08 Our plans were to head further west today, but first another search for Hall’s Babbler. We decided to drive a circuit from the homestead area round the back to the Babbler spot; however, we ended up at the water hole and were unable to find the track that completed the circuit, returning instead to ‘home’. We did however, have some good luck!
Stopping to film a couple of RED –WINGED PARROTS I flushed a couple of smaller parrots from a tree and chasing them down to get photos identified them as MULGA PARROTS! I was very pleased of course, with yet another new bird and I got photos I was relatively happy with! We also had a couple of Bustards beside the car, several Bourke’s Parrots and 5 GROUND CUCKOO-SHRIKES in flight (the only ones on this trip) but no Hall’s Babblers…. ….
Looked like I am going to be the only birder to leave Bowra without seeing this species – much to Julie MacLaren’s delight…. As we returned to the shearer’s quarters again we stumbled across a couple of BLACK-TAILED NATIVE HENS feeding about 10 meters from the pond and the quarters themselves. This is not a difficult bird in the west, but it rarely comes further east, although in some years it erupts and the odd bird appears nearer the coast. It has been a bit of a bogey bird for me and I was happy to finally tick it off and get such close views and photos at last.
We left Bowra around 9.00 and headed into town to fill up with fuel. ($1.55 a litre).Then off west to Eulo – approximately 70kms stopping at the (in)famous Eulo Bore, 15 kms outside town. Bare stony ground, thorny bushes made me think of Africa - although cinematic Africa only as I haven’t been there! Birds were few and far between although a single HARDHEAD rose off the pond and flew around until we left. Not much to Eulo, one main street, a pub, a hotel and a shop. We stopped to top up with fuel again (the most expensive of the trip at $1.61.9 per litre) then headed on towards Thargominda and Lake Bindegolly (~ 100 kms to the lake). The land became more barren and rugged as we went. Bare earth covered liberally with stone, sand, rocks, harsh thorny looking, leafless bushes, occasional patches of grass, brown and dry looking and this is a good year! Little road kill – an occasional kangaroo, emu or wild pig. Raptors in smaller numbers out here – probably all at Bowra feasting on the Zebra Finches and Diamond Doves! Few cars, we saw no more than half a dozen going in the opposite direction, an occasional road train, but the bitumen road was in good enough condition for them not to be an issue.
We reached the access to Lake Bindegolly mid afternoon. In the ‘middle of nowhere’ the sign directed us off to the right to a shaded table and information board, while, away in the distance, a silvery sheen suggested water. We had lunch then wandered around the immediate area trying to get photos of the Pied Honeyeaters. Elusive buggers, we rarely got within 30 meters before they took to the air and, generally travelled some distance before alighting again. Spiny-cheeked and Singing Honeyeaters, a White-necked and a White-faced Heron also seen near the information hut.
We decided that it was too late today to try for the lake so we would camp and do the walk in the morning. Somehow when we drove out of the info area we completely missed the Bush Camping sign on the left hand side of the road about 20 meters further on, it was on the left so Robert completely overlooked it…. It may have been the crippling view we had of a Major Mitchell Cockatoo feeding beside the road. We drove on for a few kms wondering where the camping was until we came across some roadworks. Asking one of the (presumed) locals where the bush camping was was unhelpful as his only suggestion was to go on to Thargominda as he didn’t know of any camping out here! We turned back and re-checked our map and found the turn off almost opposite the information shed… a sandy track led off through short scrubby bushes and we followed it to the end to camp on the bank of a dry lake bed.
We went for a walk immediately, turning up more Spiny-cheeked and Singing Honeyeaters, a small party of Splendid Fairy-wrens, Crested Pigeons, a Willy Wagtail, several small groups of Bluebonnets, a Southern Whiteface, and 2 Ringneck Parrots and had poor views of a family part of WHITE-WINGED FAIRY-WRENS. In the distance we both thought we saw a couple of Babblers moving between distant patches of grass so, headed off through a barbed wire fence, but to no avail – whatever they had been they had disappeared.
We set up camp and settled down to an evening under the stars. It was as if we were alone in the world – although a nearly full moon threw strange shadows in the semi dark and reduced the number of visible stars. It was very quiet, and we watched for nightjars or owls flying against the highlighted sky until it was time to turn in and sleep in our tents for the first time on the trip.
21.5.08 Up and at them as soon as we could – breakfast over and a quick look around. R heard a call he thought he half recognised, but we decided we wouldn’t follow up on it and packing up, moved out. We probably should have as it is probable it was a Wedgebill and would have been the only one seen on the trip – such are the decisions one makes! As we drove towards the road a small bird lifted in front of us and landed again on R’s side of the car. Although at a distance we could see it quite clearly – a male ORANGE CHAT - a lifer for both of us! It didn’t hang around long, lifting again to disappear into the distance, but chuffed by this we crossed the main road (Chestnut-crowned Babblers, Whitefaces, Mulga Parrots) and drove the sand track to the gate into the National Park.
Leaving the car we trudged further along the track, seeing little, but the watery shimmer ahead encouraged us. We reached a couple of seats under a tree – a look out point, had some water and headed down into the shallow valley.
The water was about 2 kms away and the dusty, treeless plain was virtually bird less. The lake was a different matter, however. Heaving is a word that describes it I think. Literally thousands of BLACK SWANS, Wood Ducks, Grey Teal, Black Ducks, Hardheads, COOTS, Pelicans and PINK-EARED DUCK covered the lake or flew around. We approached as carefully as we could about midpoint and settled down with the scope. I soon picked out a number of FRECKLED DUCK – a lifer for R – while he spotted a pair of Orange Chats feeding along the shoreline. We had great views of these with the scope, but pictures were hard to obtain as they stayed a safe distance away at all times. I scanned through the flocks looking for a specific target picking up lesser numbers of Little Black Cormorants, CASPIAN and GULL-BILLED TERNS, AUSTRALIAN GREBES, Darters and AUSTRALIAN SHOVELER. Finally a small discreet duck appeared and after some consultation we agreed it was my target species – BLUE-BILLED DUCK. Not the best view I have ever had of a new duck, but adequate.
We wanted to minimise our disturbance of the birds in general so moved left along the shoreline stopping every now and again to scan the flocks. It was at one of these stops that R exclaimed and pointed out an unexpected find – a AUSTRALIAN SHELDUCK, a solitary bird flying through the birds on the far side of the lake. It’s large size and distinctive wing pattern making it relatively easy to pick out – it was a great find out here and yet another new bird for me!
We moved on until we ran out of birds and water as the flocks inched away from us and towards the far end of the lake. We trudged back through the dust and dry shrubs to the track and, eventually, the Jeep, seeing Whistling Kite and Little Eagle as we went and trying to turn an Australian Pipit into a Wagtail on the way….
We had some rest and recuperation at the info hut in the shade and then it was back on the road, heading back east this time. Just before Eulo we turned off for a brief shopping visit to the Eulo Date Farm where we made a couple of selections – date Port and date & fig jam being mine – before turning off the bitumen onto the unsealed road to Currawinya Nat Park.
I have never driven long distance on an unsealed road before, certainly not a highway style road. I’ve driven plenty of dirt roads, but not at 100 - 110 kms – embarrassing really when I’ve been in Australia nearly 30 years…I got used to it after about 10 or 15 kms, watching the surface ahead like a hawk avoiding possible bull dust holes and trying to stay on the smoothest part of the road. 100 kms later and we arrived at the park head quarters – to find non one home. We went down to the camping area along the river Paroo, chose a spot, set up the tents and then investigated the toilet and shower arrangements. R had promised, yes, promised, me a hot shower, however, it was not to be. In fact the showers were all grouped together – sort of prison style a la movies, in a ‘don’t drop the soap’ kind of way – and never mind no hot water – there was no roof either! In summer I’m sure it would be nice, showering under the open sky with cool water. In winter, although it wasn’t cold, a warm shower would have been much appreciated and the water was freezing – until you turned numb then it was OK…..
We had a look around the old buildings and R tried to find the hot showers he remembered. (yeah right – you’re DREAMIN’!) Heaps of birds around, especially around our campsite on the river bank. Yellow-billed Spoonbills and a White-necked Heron were regulars in the trees above the water. Hundreds of MASKED and WHITE-BROWED WOOD-SWALLOWS circled overhead and occasionally landed to drink in nervous flocks. LITTLE FRIARBIRDS, Spotted Bowerbirds, Ringneck and Red-winged Parrots and Red-capped Robins were in numbers visiting the water too or just hanging around declaring territory. A red sunset provided for dozens of photos – thank God for digital – but the only night bird heard was Owlet Nightjar despite repeated efforts on the Barking Owl front.
22.5.08 Up and at ‘em again at an early hour – breakfast consumed, we headed off to the lakes. Before we did, however, while R was performing his morning ablutions, as they used to say, a Peregrine decided that Red-winged Parrot was the meal of the day, hammering one right above R. Spotting R the Peregrine decided it was all too much and left the Parrot to hit the ground and stagger around with a broken wing. We tried to do something for it – but were at a bit of a loss and the parrot was less than grateful. We had to leave it and trust the falcon would return to collect its meal.
Currawinya has two lakes - one fresh, one salt and it’s a 30 km drive to get to them. A few kilometres into the drive and we came to a stop as some unidentified birds flew across the road. In an otherwise, unidentifiable spot (it all looks the same sometimes) we went for a walk through the head high scrub chasing what turned out to be several Pied Honeyeaters, Splendid Fairy-wrens, White-winged Trillers and Bourke’s Parrots. Returning to the road R realised he had lost his sunglasses so we retraced our steps as best we could and searched for 30 minutes or so – without result. We got to the fresh lake without further incident and walked the short track from the car park to the lake shore to – nothing. The lake was full, but only with vacant water. A few Coots pottered around the edge, but otherwise the lake was bird challenged! We gave ‘chase’ to a couple of Bourke’s Parrots, and Bluebonnets along the tree line in the hope of some photos, a Red-backed Kingfisher, a couple of Crimson Chats and, finally, a pair of VARIEGATED FAIRY-WRENS were also seen. Moving along the lake shore to a peninsula we spied a few Hardhead, but that was it. After the heaving mass of birds at Lake Bindegolly yesterday this was a surprise – all this water going to waste!
We had some lunch back at the car then off to the salt lake. A 10 minute drive and away in the distance it shimmered under the midday sun. We set off across the open plain and eventually reached the shore line of this salty environment. Flocks of Pelicans skimmed the mirror like surface approaching from the distant shore where thousands more stood in their roost, flapping and stretching, sleeping and walking, squabbling and bickering. We couldn’t hear anything, but through the scope it resembled nothing more than a refugee camp seen on the news! Small flocks of up to 20 or 30 birds continually lifted off and flew low across the lake towards us before lifting and spiralling high into the sky until hundreds were funnelling up out of sight, presumably to drop down to feeding areas somewhere far out of sight. There didn’t seem to be many returning – presumably, too, that occurs later in the day when they return to feed the young. A few Black-fronted Dotterels along the water’s edge completed the birding at the salt lake.
Heading back towards camp we spotted some gum trees and stopped for a walk in a slightly different environment. We had Weebills and an Australian Grebe, a few Common Bronzewing and a couple of Emu. Almost back at camp and near the park headquarters we had a look at an overflow dam of sorts – a lone WANDERING WHISTLE-DUCK nervously watched our approach and we spotted a couple of WEDGE-TAILED EAGLES cruising high overhead. Another cold shower followed – better this time, probably more prepared for it – shared with three other birders who had just arrived. We discussed where and what and they described a spot nearby where they had just had another of my hoped for species. No time to follow up today, but we decided we’d have a look tomorrow before we left the park. Another pleasant evening beside the river - the sunset not so spectacular this time.
23.5.08 The location described by the people yesterday was the junction of the main track and the turn off to the park headquarters so we drove up there, parked and wandered. Within 5 minutes we had our quarry – separately as it happened, but almost at the same time! WHITE-FRONTED HONEYEATER. Stunning bird actually – I was very impressed, seeing one calling briefly even down its red throat! New bird number 26! We scrounged around the scrub for a while picking a few other species and seeing the new one several times, then it was time to head off and back onto the road for Eulo. One car only seen on the 100 km drive until we were back on the bitumen again. Enough fuel still left (surprisingly!) for the trip to Cunnumulla, but we enjoyed a quick stop for cold Cokes and a Mars bar apiece.
We stopped at a random location to look for Cinnamon Quail-thrush as their range appears to extend close to the road in this area. We traipsed across the stony ground to no avail for the quail-thrush, however we did find a pair of BLACK HONEYEATERS. Arriving back in Cunnumulla we topped up the fuel and bought some rump steaks for dinner – just as expensive as Brisbane at $17 a kilo and disappointingly lacking in flavour – before returning to the shearer’s quarters and claiming my room again. – we decided to share this time.
We went looking for the Hall’s Babbler again - now I’m getting desperate – with directions for an old nest site plugged into the GPS. We located the site – but no birds.
We looked again for the Grey Falcon at a new roost tree – no luck either. We were both pretty tired by now, it’s been a long week, so we decided to rest up for the evening for a last plunge tomorrow.
24.5.08 Out for Hall’s Babbler again this morning – this time to the left hand side of the rocky ridge where the Quail-thrush live. We split up and walked the bush about 60 meters apart – stony rough ground, dead wood in quantity, sharp, dry, resistant bushes tugged at clothing or straps. A movement ahead and a definite Babbler shape climbing up through a bush about 20 meters in front. I froze and waited, a further movement and a Babbler appeared at my side of the bush in full view – a bright white eye stripe, brighter than I had ever seen, it twitched and peered with its beady eyes, as Babblers do, then twitched again and shot back into the bush. I gabbled “HALL’S BABBLER’ into the walkie talkie and moved into a better position to watch 3 or 4 of the birds flitting and chasing in the thick growth, as a couple of Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush passed below, flushed by R approaching from the right. He saw them too from his angle - at last, now I wouldn’t be the only birder not to see Hall’s Babbler at Bowra! I don’t know if it was the amount of effort put in or a genuine feeling, but I think I like Hall’s Babbler is my favourite babbler!
Relieved that we had finally covered all the target species we relaxed a little and went looking for Buttonquail, then sat at a waterhole watching finches and robins come in to drink in the afternoon sun. We picked up a couple of other species for our Bowra list – BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE (definitely NOT Letter-winged, but we tried!), BLUE-FACED HONEYEATER, COCKATIEL, STRAW-NECKED IBIS and RED-RUMPED PARROT. We, again, looked for the Grey Falcon – feeling a little embarrassed we hadn’t given such a rare species much attention after seeing it just the once – but didn’t find it. Generally it was a wind down type of afternoon and evening. We did try for owls and nightjars again after dark but with no further luck.
25.5.08 Packed up and left by 7.00. We drove in company with another pair of birders and stopped at an, again, unidentifiable piece of road to look for Black-eared Cuckoo. No luck and we headed on after about 40 minutes search. Arrived back in Brisbane 11 hours later having driven 2,680 kms and spent ~ $600 on fuel alone. I suppose though, $300 each + $150 for accommodation for a week’s holiday isn’t too bad – especially when you total 27 new species! (R got 5). The trip list was only 159 species, which seems low, but the quality of the birds was brilliant. I took 800 photos that I reduced to just over 300 keepers. I think R is still sorting his out (27.6.08)…………..
Coffee-ed and petrol-ed up ($1.39 a litre with 4 cent Woolworths discount) we headed on to our lunch destination, St George, another 290 odd kms further west. We were on a week’s western safari, heading for Cunamulla to start with - and hoping to go further. It had all been decided in the last couple of weeks – both Robert & I managing to get time off, plan and organise. Our primary destination – Bowra station, famous for an incredible selection of the rarer western species – or at least the harder to get ones.
As always we kept a road list, each species recorded as we saw it. R was keen to stop at a small National Park reserve in the middle of nowhere between Dalby and St George. He had stopped her before for a ‘water in, water out’ break before and wanted to take a walk to ease his muscles. We overshot but quickly turned and I drove down the track to the picnic ground a few hundred meters off the road. Parking we grabbed bins and cameras and headed off down an overgrown track looking for any activity. There wasn’t much, but we did find some WEEBILLS, YELLOW-FACED HONEYEATERS, a few GOLDEN WHISTLERS, an ORIOLE and a number of thornbills that evolved into INLAND and YELLOW after some investigation.
A half an hour and we decided to head back to the car - easier said than done when we couldn’t find the track and weren’t too sure of the way. We walked on in what we believed was the correct direction, relying on the sun, but nothing familiar turned up. Both of us silent, thinking the same thing – lost! We reassured each other that we would eventually find a road or the track, however in the silent, gloomy world under the dense trees this was getting harder to believe. Fifteen minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes and then we broke out suddenly onto the track we had driven in on – we had circled much further than we had thought and had a 200 meter walk back to the car – completely unexpected. Good start, we said, we haven’t even reached the hard stuff and we’re lost already! The GPS unit was still safe in the car, of course; it was to become a permanent fixture in future!
Back on the highway, cruise control safely locked in at 110 kms/hr, we barrelled on to St George. Arriving at lunch time we again filled up with petrol ($1.45 a litre, no discounts), bought some bakery food and coffee and headed to the river bank. Nothing exciting showed as we ate and we headed on out of town shortly afterwards. Crossing the bridge on the outskirts two birds flew across the windscreen and R suggested we stop to check them out as they had looked like Bourke’s Parrots. We turned off left at the end of the bridge and down a dusty track to stop on the river bank. The place was alive with birds and we excitedly identified my first lifer of the trip – CRIMSON CHAT! They were in significant numbers, as well as WHITE-PLUMED and SPINY-CHEEKED HONEYEATERS, ZEBRA and PLUM-HEADED FINCHES, DIAMOND DOVES, a WHITE-NECKED HERON, a WHISTLING KITE and a YELLOW-BILLED SPOONBILL. The Chats were not fully ‘coloured up’ – some showed flecks of red on chest and forehead, but the majority were plain, pale brown, rather pipit like, however, all had the bright crimson rump – very obvious when taking off or landing and quite stunning. Photos attempted and all birds noted we headed off on the third, and final, 300 km leg to Cunnamulla and Bowra station. Reaching Cunnumulla late afternoon, we topped up with fuel yet again - $1.51.9 a litre – in town and headed straight out to the station entrance. Reaching the beginning of the 2.5 km dirt road access we stopped at the gate to be greeted by our first Bowra bird – a female RED-CAPPED ROBIN.
As we drove in towards the homestead we met Julie, the owner, driving out! We chatted for a few moments car to car, checking bird possibilities and accommodation details, then on to the shearer’s quarters and unpacking the car. In the middle of transporting food, clothes and other sundries from car to room a cry went up as 4 MAJOR MITCHELL, or PINK, COCKATOOS flew off the trees beside the nearby pond – my second lifer! No time for bins, but the colourful birds were low overhead looking like they had been washed with something red and become stained.
The hour or so before nightfall allowed for quick birding around the immediate area – more RED-CAPPED ROBINS and CRIMSON CHATS, dozens of DIAMOND DOVES, 4 BLUEBONNETS and a BROWN FALCON were the significant finds among a selection of commoner species. We spent the evening swapping information and stories with other birders camping or sharing the rather basic shearer’s quarters. There was an electric blanket on my bed which I appreciated as the evening turned cool – it did make it a little harder to get up in the morning though!
18.05.08 Acting on some of the info garnered the previous night we set off for the Charleville road out of Cunnumulla for 8.00 the next morning. We birded a little before we left, but as daylight is not real in the west until about 7.00 we didn’t have a lot of time to look around and we wanted to be 30 kms north to catch the Bronzewing flocks we had been told about. Birding on the way – AUSTRALIAN BUSTARDS, BROWN FALCONS, various parrot species and a flock of EMUS delayed us but we got to the designated site at about 8.20. There had been ‘thousands’ of bronzewings flocking in the grasslands around the phone towers, these had reduced as the water supply dwindled and so we were keen to catch the remnant before they all dispersed back into the west. We were rewarded immediately with a flock of approx 150 FLOCK BRONZEWINGS circling the grasslands. Over the next hour and a half we saw several flocks of about the same number of birds although it was difficult to keep track so we believe the total number of individuals to be about 300. As we walked in the grasslands SPOTTED HARRIERS and BROWN FALCONS hunted the LITTLE BUTTON-QUAILS that rose from the grass.
We staked out a shallow water supply beside the road for a while but only ZEBRA FINCHES, DIAMOND DOVES and a couple of CRIMSON CHATS dropped in, nervously, for a drink. We weren’t surprised; the number of raptors in the general area was astounding. This was to continue all week with BLACK and WHISTLING KITES, NANKEEN KESTRELS, BROWN FALCONS of all phases and morphs and lesser numbers of HOBBYS and other species almost continually in sight all day. We didn’t actually see any Black Falcons although other birders reported them from several locations. (Late note – one falcon we did see at the Bronzewing location was probably Black. It was predating a Spotted Harrier for food and R got some shots that we believe establish it as a Black Falcon.)
Back at Bowra and the bird fest continued – I added CHESTNUT-CROWNED BABBLERS, SPOTTED BOWERBIRD, SOUTHERN WHITEFACE and BUDGERIGAR to my life list before lunch!
After a quick bite to eat we headed deeper into the station environs following R’s memory and the map supplied by Julie. Parking on a ridge we split up and moved through the thorny dry bush over the hard stony ground, searching the scrub and watching the ground ahead. We used walkie talkies to stay in touch, although only 70 – 100 meters apart, to avoid calling out. RED-CAPPED AND HOODED ROBINS, RUFOUS SONGLARKS, WILLIE WAGTAILS, BROWN TREECREEPERS and JACKY WINTERS, then a call from R on the walkie talkie and he had spotted our prey. I tried to locate the bird between us but could not find it skulking anywhere and felt cheated. We started another sweep and within a few minutes R again called in a bird, this time I did manage to see it – SPLENDID FAIRY-WREN, 3 or 4 females and a bright blue male – stunning!
We swept back up the slope towards the track and I identified a WHITE-BROWED TREECREEPER as it flew from tree to tree ahead of us. A strange three or four note call attracted our attention and a CRESTED BELLBIRD hopped into view! This was almost too good to be true!
We drove on, ending at the main waterhole where we found a couple of other visitors canoeing. We obtained very close views and photos of a PALLID CUCKOO and several water birds in that area. Late afternoon and we decided that a look for the reputed Grey Falcon would be worthwhile. Almost a mythical bird, it is arguably the rarest raptor in Australia, however a pair had bred successfully here this year and the resulting family of four were said to roost in a specific tree – so we headed there as the sun dropped lower.
We stood around watching everything that moved as the light slowly faded. I wandered off closer to the tree in case we had missed something, then a movement in the sky and it’s a raptor heading straight towards me. Wings close, a bullet dropping, wings open, a small controlled soar, wings closed again and it’s a head and shoulders view through the bins, wings open and an upglide to land in the tree in the fading sunlight. I called R urgently and ran to get the ‘scope from the car. We had 15 minutes of vision of this rare bird, bathed in warm sunlight, preening high in the old gum before the light final faded and we headed home for dinner. We never did see or positively identify any other GREY FALCONS or this one again, although I’m pretty sure we had two brief sightings in flight around the property in succeeding days.
Before we ate we headed down to a waterhole in search of Nightjars, owls or similar. Arriving at Sawpitt pond we sat and listened as dusk fell properly. A couple of micro bats flitted around and we heard two screams which suggested either gliders or an owl. No further identification was possible and we never got the chance to ask anyone if gliders did come this far west. We returned to our quarters after dark with plans to head out after dinner when it was fully dark, however, we agreed we had done enough for one day and settled for showers and bed after our chile and wine.
19.5.08 Up and out next morning we again headed off into the property – stopping at the ridge we again swept down 50 – 70 meters apart, walkie talkies poised. R called “Thornbills” and we moved together to systemically work through the features of a group of these tiny birds flitting in and out of waist high shrubs and confirmed our suspicions of yesterday – CHESTNUT-RUMPED THRONBILLS – first new bird of the day for me!
Again a sweep across the bottom of the slope and a return sweep into relatively ‘new’ territory back up the side of the slope. Climb over dead trees, little more than brush really, round thick resistant bushes, feet scrabbling at times on the loose stones covering the exposed earth. Looking always ahead about 50 meters watching for movement and there, was that something? “R, I think I’ve got something up ahead, yes, two, no three birds, running” It was the CHESTNUT-BREASTED QUAIL-THRUSH we had been seeking. These birds don’t fly easily but can they run? Jeeez, can they ever! Stopping to blend into the red, grey and black background their plumage matching their surrounds, then on, running around bushes, over and under the broken wood, splitting up then coming together again, it was difficult to keep them in sight and still remain as quiet as possible – chase them and be noisy or move quietly and lose them… difficult to find a happy medium. We split up and I stalked my ‘own’ 2 or 3 birds trying for some sort of photo. Thirty minutes and I had seen fleeting glimpses, a couple of good views in the bins, but no photos I would show anyone else… R called me up and we started to move towards each other when he pointed out an ‘eagle’ in the sky, calling a wedgie – I glanced up, still focused on the quail-thrush in the vicinity, and thought “nah, that’s not a wedgie’ – we quickly agreed it was a BLACK-BREASTED BUZZARD, a juvenile, a new bird for me, but quickly soaring out of reasonable range, we re-focused our attention on the quail-thrush…but they had used the distraction to fade further from view.
We walked on up the slope; still hoping for more, when a 4 note called came to our attention. Isolating the musician in a lone gum tree we had reasonable views of a pardalote. The call was not recognisable – to R anyway - however, our views produced a red eyebrow and unspotted back – RED-BROWED PARDALOTE – my 4th new bird of the day and it’s not even 9.00!
We drove on stopping at random intervals for raptors perched in trees – mainly Brown Falcons and, at one point, a COLLARED SPARROWHAWK. We walked for a while near a dam across what was gibber plain, looking specifically for Orange Chat, not finding any, we went on. At one point a small pool of water right beside the track afforded close views of Zebra Finches and Diamond Doves flocking to drink. We stopped for a few minutes and the birds continued to drink undisturbed so we could get some good photos from the car. Finally coming to what appeared to be the end of the track a HOBBY flew from a nearby tree and appeared to attack the car! A few times it flew close to us and the Jeep, not close enough to be a danger, but either very interested or not happy with our presence.
We turned and headed back – time to spend some effort to find the last local ‘rarity’ – Hall’s Babbler. We swept through the area famous for their presence, but to no avail. As we emerged into a more open area R called a honeyeater in a tree overhead and we had very brief view of a PIED HONEYEATER. Following up on this as it flew quite a distance – typically of the species – three small greyish parrots flew from tree to tree ahead of us – BOURKE’S PARROT! We never did see the Honeyeater again but did get great views of this quiet unobtrusive large budgie-like parrot!
We returned to the shearer’s quarters for lunch and to meet some new arrivals to the property. As we brought them up to date on the latest local bird news R spotted an ECHNIDA walking up the track from the homestead! It stopped at the base of a tree outside and snuffled around for a while looking, we assumed, for termites. When we had finished taking photos it walked off again and disappeared into the long grass.
Out again after lunch for another look for Hall’s Babbler – again with no luck but plenty of other birds to distract and interest us, including a large number of Little Buttonquails and other possible species flushed from the dry river bed behind the Hall’s Babbler site. We suspected Stubble and Red-chested button Quail but saw only 1 or 2 of these possibilities among 20 or 30 Little B-quails and the views were too brief to be substantial.
As we returned to the shearer’s quarters R noticed a flock of birds spiralling and circling above the track – we stopped and listened and looked and identified them as LITTLE CROWS – yet another new bird for me and in a flock of about 100 individuals!
We let the sunset pass with a drink beside the pond, and after R cooked a lamb stew for dinner we headed out for some night bird hunting. We tried for Barn, Masked and Barking Owls and even Tawny Frogmouths but were only successful in OWLET NIGHTJARS. We drove right out past the Quail-thrush ridge thinking of Plains Wanderers etc in the grasslands beyond – with no luck. Returning on the track however, R gripped my arm and called “Stop, Stop, Stop.” – which I was already doing because a SPOTTED NIGHTJAR sat on the track a few meters in front of the car lit by the headlights! We both approached to the front of the car and took multiple photos before it winged off into the dark. This was a new bird for both of us and the viewing was very satisfactory – crippling in fact!
20.5.08 Our plans were to head further west today, but first another search for Hall’s Babbler. We decided to drive a circuit from the homestead area round the back to the Babbler spot; however, we ended up at the water hole and were unable to find the track that completed the circuit, returning instead to ‘home’. We did however, have some good luck!
Stopping to film a couple of RED –WINGED PARROTS I flushed a couple of smaller parrots from a tree and chasing them down to get photos identified them as MULGA PARROTS! I was very pleased of course, with yet another new bird and I got photos I was relatively happy with! We also had a couple of Bustards beside the car, several Bourke’s Parrots and 5 GROUND CUCKOO-SHRIKES in flight (the only ones on this trip) but no Hall’s Babblers…. ….
Looked like I am going to be the only birder to leave Bowra without seeing this species – much to Julie MacLaren’s delight…. As we returned to the shearer’s quarters again we stumbled across a couple of BLACK-TAILED NATIVE HENS feeding about 10 meters from the pond and the quarters themselves. This is not a difficult bird in the west, but it rarely comes further east, although in some years it erupts and the odd bird appears nearer the coast. It has been a bit of a bogey bird for me and I was happy to finally tick it off and get such close views and photos at last.
We left Bowra around 9.00 and headed into town to fill up with fuel. ($1.55 a litre).Then off west to Eulo – approximately 70kms stopping at the (in)famous Eulo Bore, 15 kms outside town. Bare stony ground, thorny bushes made me think of Africa - although cinematic Africa only as I haven’t been there! Birds were few and far between although a single HARDHEAD rose off the pond and flew around until we left. Not much to Eulo, one main street, a pub, a hotel and a shop. We stopped to top up with fuel again (the most expensive of the trip at $1.61.9 per litre) then headed on towards Thargominda and Lake Bindegolly (~ 100 kms to the lake). The land became more barren and rugged as we went. Bare earth covered liberally with stone, sand, rocks, harsh thorny looking, leafless bushes, occasional patches of grass, brown and dry looking and this is a good year! Little road kill – an occasional kangaroo, emu or wild pig. Raptors in smaller numbers out here – probably all at Bowra feasting on the Zebra Finches and Diamond Doves! Few cars, we saw no more than half a dozen going in the opposite direction, an occasional road train, but the bitumen road was in good enough condition for them not to be an issue.
We reached the access to Lake Bindegolly mid afternoon. In the ‘middle of nowhere’ the sign directed us off to the right to a shaded table and information board, while, away in the distance, a silvery sheen suggested water. We had lunch then wandered around the immediate area trying to get photos of the Pied Honeyeaters. Elusive buggers, we rarely got within 30 meters before they took to the air and, generally travelled some distance before alighting again. Spiny-cheeked and Singing Honeyeaters, a White-necked and a White-faced Heron also seen near the information hut.
We decided that it was too late today to try for the lake so we would camp and do the walk in the morning. Somehow when we drove out of the info area we completely missed the Bush Camping sign on the left hand side of the road about 20 meters further on, it was on the left so Robert completely overlooked it…. It may have been the crippling view we had of a Major Mitchell Cockatoo feeding beside the road. We drove on for a few kms wondering where the camping was until we came across some roadworks. Asking one of the (presumed) locals where the bush camping was was unhelpful as his only suggestion was to go on to Thargominda as he didn’t know of any camping out here! We turned back and re-checked our map and found the turn off almost opposite the information shed… a sandy track led off through short scrubby bushes and we followed it to the end to camp on the bank of a dry lake bed.
We went for a walk immediately, turning up more Spiny-cheeked and Singing Honeyeaters, a small party of Splendid Fairy-wrens, Crested Pigeons, a Willy Wagtail, several small groups of Bluebonnets, a Southern Whiteface, and 2 Ringneck Parrots and had poor views of a family part of WHITE-WINGED FAIRY-WRENS. In the distance we both thought we saw a couple of Babblers moving between distant patches of grass so, headed off through a barbed wire fence, but to no avail – whatever they had been they had disappeared.
We set up camp and settled down to an evening under the stars. It was as if we were alone in the world – although a nearly full moon threw strange shadows in the semi dark and reduced the number of visible stars. It was very quiet, and we watched for nightjars or owls flying against the highlighted sky until it was time to turn in and sleep in our tents for the first time on the trip.
21.5.08 Up and at them as soon as we could – breakfast over and a quick look around. R heard a call he thought he half recognised, but we decided we wouldn’t follow up on it and packing up, moved out. We probably should have as it is probable it was a Wedgebill and would have been the only one seen on the trip – such are the decisions one makes! As we drove towards the road a small bird lifted in front of us and landed again on R’s side of the car. Although at a distance we could see it quite clearly – a male ORANGE CHAT - a lifer for both of us! It didn’t hang around long, lifting again to disappear into the distance, but chuffed by this we crossed the main road (Chestnut-crowned Babblers, Whitefaces, Mulga Parrots) and drove the sand track to the gate into the National Park.
Leaving the car we trudged further along the track, seeing little, but the watery shimmer ahead encouraged us. We reached a couple of seats under a tree – a look out point, had some water and headed down into the shallow valley.
The water was about 2 kms away and the dusty, treeless plain was virtually bird less. The lake was a different matter, however. Heaving is a word that describes it I think. Literally thousands of BLACK SWANS, Wood Ducks, Grey Teal, Black Ducks, Hardheads, COOTS, Pelicans and PINK-EARED DUCK covered the lake or flew around. We approached as carefully as we could about midpoint and settled down with the scope. I soon picked out a number of FRECKLED DUCK – a lifer for R – while he spotted a pair of Orange Chats feeding along the shoreline. We had great views of these with the scope, but pictures were hard to obtain as they stayed a safe distance away at all times. I scanned through the flocks looking for a specific target picking up lesser numbers of Little Black Cormorants, CASPIAN and GULL-BILLED TERNS, AUSTRALIAN GREBES, Darters and AUSTRALIAN SHOVELER. Finally a small discreet duck appeared and after some consultation we agreed it was my target species – BLUE-BILLED DUCK. Not the best view I have ever had of a new duck, but adequate.
We wanted to minimise our disturbance of the birds in general so moved left along the shoreline stopping every now and again to scan the flocks. It was at one of these stops that R exclaimed and pointed out an unexpected find – a AUSTRALIAN SHELDUCK, a solitary bird flying through the birds on the far side of the lake. It’s large size and distinctive wing pattern making it relatively easy to pick out – it was a great find out here and yet another new bird for me!
We moved on until we ran out of birds and water as the flocks inched away from us and towards the far end of the lake. We trudged back through the dust and dry shrubs to the track and, eventually, the Jeep, seeing Whistling Kite and Little Eagle as we went and trying to turn an Australian Pipit into a Wagtail on the way….
We had some rest and recuperation at the info hut in the shade and then it was back on the road, heading back east this time. Just before Eulo we turned off for a brief shopping visit to the Eulo Date Farm where we made a couple of selections – date Port and date & fig jam being mine – before turning off the bitumen onto the unsealed road to Currawinya Nat Park.
I have never driven long distance on an unsealed road before, certainly not a highway style road. I’ve driven plenty of dirt roads, but not at 100 - 110 kms – embarrassing really when I’ve been in Australia nearly 30 years…I got used to it after about 10 or 15 kms, watching the surface ahead like a hawk avoiding possible bull dust holes and trying to stay on the smoothest part of the road. 100 kms later and we arrived at the park head quarters – to find non one home. We went down to the camping area along the river Paroo, chose a spot, set up the tents and then investigated the toilet and shower arrangements. R had promised, yes, promised, me a hot shower, however, it was not to be. In fact the showers were all grouped together – sort of prison style a la movies, in a ‘don’t drop the soap’ kind of way – and never mind no hot water – there was no roof either! In summer I’m sure it would be nice, showering under the open sky with cool water. In winter, although it wasn’t cold, a warm shower would have been much appreciated and the water was freezing – until you turned numb then it was OK…..
We had a look around the old buildings and R tried to find the hot showers he remembered. (yeah right – you’re DREAMIN’!) Heaps of birds around, especially around our campsite on the river bank. Yellow-billed Spoonbills and a White-necked Heron were regulars in the trees above the water. Hundreds of MASKED and WHITE-BROWED WOOD-SWALLOWS circled overhead and occasionally landed to drink in nervous flocks. LITTLE FRIARBIRDS, Spotted Bowerbirds, Ringneck and Red-winged Parrots and Red-capped Robins were in numbers visiting the water too or just hanging around declaring territory. A red sunset provided for dozens of photos – thank God for digital – but the only night bird heard was Owlet Nightjar despite repeated efforts on the Barking Owl front.
22.5.08 Up and at ‘em again at an early hour – breakfast consumed, we headed off to the lakes. Before we did, however, while R was performing his morning ablutions, as they used to say, a Peregrine decided that Red-winged Parrot was the meal of the day, hammering one right above R. Spotting R the Peregrine decided it was all too much and left the Parrot to hit the ground and stagger around with a broken wing. We tried to do something for it – but were at a bit of a loss and the parrot was less than grateful. We had to leave it and trust the falcon would return to collect its meal.
Currawinya has two lakes - one fresh, one salt and it’s a 30 km drive to get to them. A few kilometres into the drive and we came to a stop as some unidentified birds flew across the road. In an otherwise, unidentifiable spot (it all looks the same sometimes) we went for a walk through the head high scrub chasing what turned out to be several Pied Honeyeaters, Splendid Fairy-wrens, White-winged Trillers and Bourke’s Parrots. Returning to the road R realised he had lost his sunglasses so we retraced our steps as best we could and searched for 30 minutes or so – without result. We got to the fresh lake without further incident and walked the short track from the car park to the lake shore to – nothing. The lake was full, but only with vacant water. A few Coots pottered around the edge, but otherwise the lake was bird challenged! We gave ‘chase’ to a couple of Bourke’s Parrots, and Bluebonnets along the tree line in the hope of some photos, a Red-backed Kingfisher, a couple of Crimson Chats and, finally, a pair of VARIEGATED FAIRY-WRENS were also seen. Moving along the lake shore to a peninsula we spied a few Hardhead, but that was it. After the heaving mass of birds at Lake Bindegolly yesterday this was a surprise – all this water going to waste!
We had some lunch back at the car then off to the salt lake. A 10 minute drive and away in the distance it shimmered under the midday sun. We set off across the open plain and eventually reached the shore line of this salty environment. Flocks of Pelicans skimmed the mirror like surface approaching from the distant shore where thousands more stood in their roost, flapping and stretching, sleeping and walking, squabbling and bickering. We couldn’t hear anything, but through the scope it resembled nothing more than a refugee camp seen on the news! Small flocks of up to 20 or 30 birds continually lifted off and flew low across the lake towards us before lifting and spiralling high into the sky until hundreds were funnelling up out of sight, presumably to drop down to feeding areas somewhere far out of sight. There didn’t seem to be many returning – presumably, too, that occurs later in the day when they return to feed the young. A few Black-fronted Dotterels along the water’s edge completed the birding at the salt lake.
Heading back towards camp we spotted some gum trees and stopped for a walk in a slightly different environment. We had Weebills and an Australian Grebe, a few Common Bronzewing and a couple of Emu. Almost back at camp and near the park headquarters we had a look at an overflow dam of sorts – a lone WANDERING WHISTLE-DUCK nervously watched our approach and we spotted a couple of WEDGE-TAILED EAGLES cruising high overhead. Another cold shower followed – better this time, probably more prepared for it – shared with three other birders who had just arrived. We discussed where and what and they described a spot nearby where they had just had another of my hoped for species. No time to follow up today, but we decided we’d have a look tomorrow before we left the park. Another pleasant evening beside the river - the sunset not so spectacular this time.
23.5.08 The location described by the people yesterday was the junction of the main track and the turn off to the park headquarters so we drove up there, parked and wandered. Within 5 minutes we had our quarry – separately as it happened, but almost at the same time! WHITE-FRONTED HONEYEATER. Stunning bird actually – I was very impressed, seeing one calling briefly even down its red throat! New bird number 26! We scrounged around the scrub for a while picking a few other species and seeing the new one several times, then it was time to head off and back onto the road for Eulo. One car only seen on the 100 km drive until we were back on the bitumen again. Enough fuel still left (surprisingly!) for the trip to Cunnumulla, but we enjoyed a quick stop for cold Cokes and a Mars bar apiece.
We stopped at a random location to look for Cinnamon Quail-thrush as their range appears to extend close to the road in this area. We traipsed across the stony ground to no avail for the quail-thrush, however we did find a pair of BLACK HONEYEATERS. Arriving back in Cunnumulla we topped up the fuel and bought some rump steaks for dinner – just as expensive as Brisbane at $17 a kilo and disappointingly lacking in flavour – before returning to the shearer’s quarters and claiming my room again. – we decided to share this time.
We went looking for the Hall’s Babbler again - now I’m getting desperate – with directions for an old nest site plugged into the GPS. We located the site – but no birds.
We looked again for the Grey Falcon at a new roost tree – no luck either. We were both pretty tired by now, it’s been a long week, so we decided to rest up for the evening for a last plunge tomorrow.
24.5.08 Out for Hall’s Babbler again this morning – this time to the left hand side of the rocky ridge where the Quail-thrush live. We split up and walked the bush about 60 meters apart – stony rough ground, dead wood in quantity, sharp, dry, resistant bushes tugged at clothing or straps. A movement ahead and a definite Babbler shape climbing up through a bush about 20 meters in front. I froze and waited, a further movement and a Babbler appeared at my side of the bush in full view – a bright white eye stripe, brighter than I had ever seen, it twitched and peered with its beady eyes, as Babblers do, then twitched again and shot back into the bush. I gabbled “HALL’S BABBLER’ into the walkie talkie and moved into a better position to watch 3 or 4 of the birds flitting and chasing in the thick growth, as a couple of Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush passed below, flushed by R approaching from the right. He saw them too from his angle - at last, now I wouldn’t be the only birder not to see Hall’s Babbler at Bowra! I don’t know if it was the amount of effort put in or a genuine feeling, but I think I like Hall’s Babbler is my favourite babbler!
Relieved that we had finally covered all the target species we relaxed a little and went looking for Buttonquail, then sat at a waterhole watching finches and robins come in to drink in the afternoon sun. We picked up a couple of other species for our Bowra list – BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE (definitely NOT Letter-winged, but we tried!), BLUE-FACED HONEYEATER, COCKATIEL, STRAW-NECKED IBIS and RED-RUMPED PARROT. We, again, looked for the Grey Falcon – feeling a little embarrassed we hadn’t given such a rare species much attention after seeing it just the once – but didn’t find it. Generally it was a wind down type of afternoon and evening. We did try for owls and nightjars again after dark but with no further luck.
25.5.08 Packed up and left by 7.00. We drove in company with another pair of birders and stopped at an, again, unidentifiable piece of road to look for Black-eared Cuckoo. No luck and we headed on after about 40 minutes search. Arrived back in Brisbane 11 hours later having driven 2,680 kms and spent ~ $600 on fuel alone. I suppose though, $300 each + $150 for accommodation for a week’s holiday isn’t too bad – especially when you total 27 new species! (R got 5). The trip list was only 159 species, which seems low, but the quality of the birds was brilliant. I took 800 photos that I reduced to just over 300 keepers. I think R is still sorting his out (27.6.08)…………..
